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Finding the Needle in the Haystack- Photographing Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda

March 4th, 2012 |  by No comments

A large Silverback Gorilla expressing his dominance high in the mountains of Rwanda.

“Please Stand Up”  Our guide Francois is crouched low in the thick undergrowth and taps Jeff and me on the shoulder motioning for us to move. We are both indignant that after  finding our positions, he wants us to move so that someone else can shoot. I continue shooting as I decide to slowly make room for someone else. I am more than startled when I suddenly touch Jeff to move, not to make room for someone to shoot but rather to make room for a 600 pound plus Silverback who is inches behind me waiting to pass. Francois smiled and said be calm and the giant took up resting spot less than a yard in front. My heart was still pounding as the large silverback gorilla with a couple of smaller female gorillas foraged  in the dense jungle undergrowth. They were casually picking small branches off the shrubs and pulling them between their teeth to remove the leaves.

Stephen Rimer from Unforgettable Journeys who set up this trip photographs Jeffrey Neu and myself as a large Silverback “asks us to move” from our shooting location so that he and his family can pass.

 

There were eight of us in our group photographing first in Rwanda and then onto Tanzania. Personally I flew from Miami to Atlanta and then to Amsterdam and finally from Amsterdam to Kingali, We had one addition to our group of seven friends, a wonderful gentleman named Jacques who was my roomie for the trip. We hit it off right from the start when we both discovered that we more than enjoyed the red juice . It is always a blast traveling with my good friends Jeff and Michelle. If you read my blog on Africa from my trip to Botswana last year you know that when we travel we eat well, sleep just a little and most importantly we laugh and take amazing photographs. This trip certainly started out with some good laughs. We arrived at our hotel for the first night and I was get acquainted with the local accent which at times is difficult to understand. There was a buffet set up and I asked one of the chefs what the meat dish was and I honestly thought he said kitten. I responded with no thanks but was relieved and laughed hard when Michelle pointed out that he said Kidney and not kitten. Still I am glad that I passed…..
I am still somewhat in amazement and awe that a little more than a year ago, I had little desire to get a series of shots and come to Africa. I am not really a wildlife photographer and at the time I seriously thought that Africa was going to be pretty similar to going to the Bronx Zoo or one of those wildlife adventure parks that you drive through in the States. It didn’t take me long to fall in love with Africa. I was amazed last year by the light, the colors and the gesture of the animals and at the end of my trip last year I thought Africa ROCKED. I also thought that it simply couldn’t be topped. Once again I was wrong, and coming to Rwanda to see Mountain Gorillas has been an amazing trip.
Finding gorillas in Rwanda is akin to finding a needle in a Haystack. Gorillas share about 95% of our DNA and act very much like humans. Francois has studied the gorillas for over 30 years helping Diane Fossey back in the day. He is a total character who eats, sleeps and behaves much like the gorillas and probably shares more like 98% of the DNA.

Brennan Rimer from Journeys Unforgettable photographs Francois teaching me a bit about gorilla behavior as we hike through the rain forest.

 

Francois, our guide and our support team of porters and trackers.

 

Although almost everyone seems to have an AK47, the weapons are used only to scare buffalo and other wildlife that could threaten us in the jungle. Most of the weapons are old and were confiscated during the Genocide.

We meet up with our guide Francois at about 7AM for an orientation. After orientation, we are back in our vehicles driving bumping dirt and rock roads heading to the trailhead.  At the head of the trail we meet up with porters to help carry our hundreds of pounds of camera gear. Most  of these porters were poachers years ago, but now the folks on safari to see gorillas supply the income to support the protection of gorillas and at the same time the support of the local community.  As we pass through the fields, it becomes obvious that women do most of the hard work in Rwanda while men tend to sit around drinking beer made from bananas and talking.
 We are all wearing our gortex pants and jackets as we continue along the trail and we are curious as to how far we have to walk and what the terrain will be like. We start out on a well maintained trail passing by locals working in fields who all come out to greet us. It seems the entire population knows “Good Morning” even if it is late in the day.
 We reach the park boundary which is a high stone wall that we cross over. The wall runs for 60 kilometers and it was built to stop the farmers from extending their fields into the park and to keep the buffalo and elephants in the jungle, away from the crops. Once over the wall, all evidence of civilization dissipates. The path we have been following soon disappears, and we walk behind Francois and a group of porters some of who are wielding machetes to slash through the dense undergrowth. One carries a Russian AK-47 which was confiscated from time of the Rwanda genocide. We are told that it is used only to scare away buffalo or other wildlife.
The terrain quickly becomes steep. Francois stops along the way to teach us gorilla behavior. He rips some bark off of a eucalyptus tree with his teeth and strips thorns off of a plant and makes a variety of guttural, grunting sounds teaching us the entire gorilla vocabulary. We continue our trek which changes vegetation from bamboo forest to extremely thick jungle environment as we increase altitude which is now 8600 feet. Trackers spend the entire day from sunrise to sunset following and protecting the gorillas and relay coordinates to Francois. Fortunately, the last poaching in Rwanda was in 2002. Just under 9000 feet we stop and leave packs and everything but cameras for the final push. We scan the thick jungle and we see only thick vegetation but Francois spots one gorilla literally like a needle in a haystack. The incline is extremely steep and it rains on and off which is expected in a rain forest but difficult on photo gear and humans. We still don’t know exactly what lenses we will need or how close we will get and then Francois tells us to be silent. The adrenaline rushes through the body as we hear non human sounds and then right in front of us less than a meter away is a large Silverback Gorilla which takes your breath away with amazement and a little fear. I realize this is not the zoo and these are wild mammals that we are closer to than we would be in a zoo. It is a very exhilarating feeling that is simply indescribable to anyone who isn’t with us.  I suppose there is an unconscious connection with these enormous apes who in reality share most of our DNA.  They act so much like humans or maybe we act more like gorillas. We are allowed one hour with these giants and  we shoot gizigabytes of data.

We hike to 9000 feet passing lots of folks prior to the steep push into the dense rain forest jungle.

 

Folks of all ages come to say hi before we enter the rain forest.

 

It is an enormous adrenaline rush when we find the needle in the haystack. Your heart pounds when you are inches from the gorillas.

 

Yup it is a rain forest and it rained in biblical proportions!

 

We share 98% of the genetic material with these gentle giants and the experience is a once in lifetime adventure.

 

He is not smoking a cuban cigar, but rather eating a stick. Amazing to be this close to a 700 plus pound Silverback.

 

Large Silverback and young baby in the canopy of the rainforest.

 

The babies are beyond cute!

 

This little guy came to within inches of my camera.

 

It is quite rare for gorillas to have twins and we lucked out finding this mom and her babies deep in the jungle.

It is scary how human like the gorillas can be or maybe we are like the gorillas. This guy was about two feet in front of us lying down and staring at each one of us with his hand on his chin.

 

A very young baby playing just inches from us.

 

Cute and incredible to watch

We did three separate hikes, each to about 9000 feet to spend one hour at a time with a different group of gorillas.

 

We do three separate treks over three days each time visiting another family of these incredible animals in Rwanda.
Most folks hear Rwanda, and they naturally think of the horrific genocide that occurred there in 1994. A conflict between the Hutus and Tutsis resulted in the death of more than one million and left two million as refugees across the borders in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), and Uganda.
We started our visit to Rwanda in the city of Kigali making our first stop a visit to the Genocide Memorial which is a very emotional experience and something that everyone should do when they visit Rwanda. Times are very different from 1994. While the Rwandan people are happy hard working folks almost everyone can tell you about a family member or close friend who was killed during the conflict between the Hutus and the Tutsis.
Rwanda today is a very different country from 1994. President Kagame has created an economic revival that includes NGO money, foreign aid, and social stability. Today, Rwanda is peaceful, and Kigali is considered one of the safest and most secure cities in Africa. Rwanda is also spotless. Unlike much of Africa and other third world countries, there is no trash and filth on the streets. In fact when entering Rwanda it is illegal to bring in plastic. So many outsiders would view Rwanda as third world and yet in many ways it is more ecological conscious than places like the US.  The last Saturday of each month the entire populous including the President and all the generals pitch in to pick up garbage and debris. It is a national past time. Unlike many tourists we ventured into every possible village that we came across and we were always greeted warmly. Never did I ever feel unsafe walking in alleys even at night. We could all take some major lessons from Rwandan society. The country is still however poor and we got immense satisfaction that when we photographed groups of kids, we would buy them pens. Five US dollars bought and entire box of pens and the kids were beyond thrilled. They wanted to run home and show their parents. They need pens for school and many can’t afford something that we take for granted. We were all impressed that the average person would walk several miles to market and back carrying items like a sack of potatoes which weighed 70 to 80 kilos on their head. Some of the women were carrying almost twice their own body weight.

Post war has been not only good for the people of Rwanda but also for the gorilla population which has flourished since the war. Tourism was just beginning to revive when the genocide in Rwanda blew up in 1994. As tourists disappeared, the income to pay park rangers to protect the gorilla families also vanished. During the genocide, gorillas were killed as Hutus fled Rwanda to the DRC. As refugees retreated into the rain forest, they bought with them various human diseases which also took a heavy toll on the gorillas.

After the genocide tourism slowly started to come back, but in 1999, eight tourists were murdered by Hutu rebels, again tourism came to a standstill. Now with peace for more than a decade it is impressive to see the rebound in tourism and in the entire country of Rwanda.
Mountain gorillas are located in a fairly small volcanic, mountainous region known as the Virunga Range which has eight volcanoes reaching as high as 14,000 feet. The most impressive of these volcano’s has been erupting for 50 years and contains a lava lake. It is in the DRC and it is high on my list of places to visit although  because of political unrest travel to the volcano is risky. We went to the border one night to see the volcano erupting but it was foggy and we could see only a small faint red glow.
The gorilla population has enriched Rwanda and as tourism expanded funds to care for the gorillas increased. In 1981 there were 254 mountain gorillas in the Virunga Volcanoes area.  in 2011, the population increased to over 450.
Like human fingerprints, a gorilla’s nose has a distinct pattern that allows the rangers to readily identify it. Mountain gorillas are nomadic. They forage in the morning and evening, moving  through the jungle which makes finding them tough. Each group of gorillas have one large dominant silverback who charms the ladies and decides every move that the group makes.
Below the silverback in rank are younger males called blackbacks, several females and babies. A silverback will usually have four or five females in his group and they remain bonded for life. Younger males stay with the family until they are about 12 years old, when they begin developing white fur on their backs. At this age, they are ready to leave the family in search of young females to begin forming their own family groups. Occasionally, gorilla families will have more than one silverback. They seem to work out leadership issues among themselves.

Mountain gorillas live to an age of 40-45 years and gestation like humans  is 9 months. Generally, gorillas have only one baby but we were very lucky and spent one of our outings watching a mom with twins. As I watch and photograph the gorillas with my good friends we have one amazing encounter after another. At one point I am standing and photographing a gorilla and my friend Steve calls my name. I turn and this time it is not a large Silverback but rather a mother gorilla with her baby who has come up behind me in the dense jungle and is trying to pass. She brushes my leg as I make room for her to pass. This time I have no fear and only admiration for these incredible creatures.

Currently, the rest of the group is out on a final venture before we head to Tanzania. I decided to stay in the vehicle and write the first part of the blog while they are they are hiking  through the canopy of the rain forest photographing birds which still doesn’t excite me. I have smirk on my face because it started to pour in biblical proportion about 40 minutes after they left as I type away in Range Rover. One of my camera bodies was soaked on the first day with the gorillas and while I was able to restore it to a semi working state by placing it in a bag of rice, I do not want to risk my other camera body.
I am humored as the rain continues to pour on the vehicle. I can’t wait for them to return so I can mock my soaked friends.
I must admit that I am also a bit afraid, not of gorillas or other wild animals, but I am a bit fearful that I have keyworded quite a few birds. Michele really has me worried because moments before she left the vehicle she was using her iPhone to photograph birds in a African bird book and clutching her binoculars.
In all seriousness, sitting quietly in my dry vehicle, typing and watching the deluge I can reflect on my truly wonderful experience of observing and photographing mountain gorillas in their natural environment as they interacted with each other and occasionally with us. Mountain gorillas are listed as critically endangered, and their survival depends solely upon the future. I am glad that our visit help generates the income to sustain this incredibly species and I hope that our behavior as humans who share most of the DNA can keep this species on earth. Our past behavior is not encouraging but I hope for a brighter future.

We gave pens to kids because they need them in order to get into school. The pens were a cherished possession.

 

Rwanda is filled with color and we had as much fun in the villages as we did in the mountains.

 

Smiles and color abounds in Rwanda.

 

We never ever felt unsafe and it was a joy to go into the villages and meet people who always greeted us warmly.

 

A man sitting on bags of potatoes. The women carry these bags on their heads and some of the bags weigh more than the women.

 

A young girl carrying a boulder on her head and doing so with a smile.

The men relax and the women do a lot of the work.

 

We realize just how lucky we are when we see sites like this everywhere.

We see brand names and US logos on much of the clothing but many have very little.

 

A girl and her mom coming home from a wedding

 

The colors were very exciting for me and the people were very friendly and easy to photograph.

 

Complimentary colors are everywhere.

 

I shot close to 8,000 frames.

 

Could I have a little red with the blue? Sure, colors like this are everywhere...

 

Tea is one of the main crops and the tea fields are amazing

 

Red volcanic soil and rows of tea

 

Life in Rwanda is hard but it is an incredible place and I will return....

 

Amazing faces...

 

Behind every face there is a story....

 

A local market in Rwanda

 

Carrying bananas to market. The local folks walk several kilometers like this everyday.Taking chickens to a local market

 

 

Jeffrey and I playing around!!!!

 

I love Africa and can’t wait for the second part of this journey which will bring me into Tanzania and I am also beyond excited that I am leading another workshop In Africa in May which will take us to the Skeleton Coast, the sand dunes in Namibia and then onto Botswana. There are only two spots left on the trip with Journeys Unforgettable  so please visit d65 for more info on this trip and others planned for the future.

 


 


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Antarctica and Patagonia Trip

December 24th, 2011 |  by No comments

 

There were many  meaningful moments of the Antarctica/Patagonia trip some of which started long before the trip.

Here are some of the highlights……

BEFORE THE SHIP

Checking various volcano sites every morning at 4:30 and calculating our chances of making it to Buenos Aires and finally Ushuaia.

Finding an alternative way to get to Ushuaia via a 35 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires.

Finally after much anxiety, making it to Ushuaia.

Walking in to my favorite wine store in Ushuaia and they had our pictures behind the counter from our 3 previous trips to the store.

Seeing the trunk of the taxi completely filled with the likes of Zucardi Tempranillos.

Hiring helicopters with JP to bring a group of folks up to the top of the glaciers in Ushuaia completely spur of the moment.

Having everyone arrive in Ushuaia without major problems even though a volcano was canceling flights to Ushuaia and Buenos Aires.

Oh yea, Arthur and Eric.

ON THE SHIP

Getting on the ship and seeing Captain Alexi who had taken us South of the Antarctic Circle when no other ships could get through the ice.

Getting all of our wine onboard the ship.

Having some old and dear friends on the ship and meeting new folks some of whom will be new life long friends.

Getting on my patch so that I didn’t hurl across the Drake.

Figuring how to give lectures while the boat is pitching 30 degrees.

Figuring how to keep crystal wine glasses that we bought on board from smashing as you hold them with one hand and eat with the other.

Crossing the Point of Convergence and feeling a sense of magic and mystery.

Convincing some Zodiac drivers to get just a little closer and then just a little closer to amazing vantage points for icebergs.

Seeing the blue of an iceberg from underneath it.

Seeing the joy of everyone in the zodiacs when we got into the best positions.

Talking about the famous extension pole to get the best vantage points under the ice.

Having Campbell Gunn tell me that one of the zodiac rides with me was his best photographic day of his life.

Getting to stand on three icebergs.

Sitting in a zodiac with Linc, and Nancy and Eric from Syracuse University that I went to school with in 1979.

Finding that my dear friend JP is truly having impact on my life. I learned how to sleep almost instantly by studying how he did this on the trip.

Finding that some of my best images from the trip look like JP shot them.

Trying to find something to argue about with JP about and still being unsuccessful in this department.

Seeing the smile on Jeffrey Neu’s face even when he was close to being banned from Antarctica.

Oh yea, Arthur and Eric..

AFTER THE SHIP

Having Louisa Michelin translate and to assure me that even though my passport was filled that she would help me get through Chile.

Seeing the Perito Moreno glacier and then getting to hike up it.

Arthur and Eric..

Most amazing of all is trying to write down my memories and realizing that I could go on and on and on. THIS WAS AN AMAZING JOURNEY….

 

And now for some image highlights…

Frozen water on glacier in Ushuaia, Argentina

 

Glaciated rock in Ushuaia

 

Glacial pond in Ushuaia

 

Wetlands from helicopter in Ushuaia

 

 

Halfmoon Island

 

Iceberg on Halfmoon Island

 

Sun over Halfmoon Island

 

Sculpted Ice on Halfmoon Island

 

Rusted iron on Deception Island

 

Iceberg in Wilhelmina Bay

 

Wilhelmina Bay

 

Spectacular berg in Wilhelmina Bay

 

Sky in Neko Harbour

 

Blue ice in Neko Harbour

 

Rainbow in Neko Harbour

 

Bue Iceberg, Petermann Island

 

Sun over Petermann Island

Snow Algae on Petermann Island

 

Under overhang of Iceberg, Petermann Island

 

Neon light at the iceberg Graveyard

 

Sliding penguin, Iceberg Graveyard

 

Through the hole, Iceberg Graveyard

 

Iceberg Graveyard

 

Storm clouds and the Iceberg Graveyard

 

Danko Island blue iceberg

 

Danko Island over and under iceberg

 

looking up at berg on Danko Island

 

Striated berg, Danko Island

 

Under the berg, Danko Island

 

Lenticular Clouds over Melchior Islands

 

Iceberg caving in Patagonia

Glacier in El Calafate, Patagonia

 

El Calafate, Patagonia

 

View below and above glacier, El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Glacier, El Calafate

 

Blue hole in ice on glacier in El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Blue ice on glacier, El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Glacier hike, El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Glacier hike in El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Glacier. El Calafate, Patagonia

 

Sunrise in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

 

Swamp in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

 

Llamas in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

 

Torres del Paine sunrise

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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African Adventure: Namibia & Botswana May 6-21, 2012

November 21st, 2011 |  by No comments

 

African Adventure: Namibia & Botswana 

 

 May 6-21, 2012  

 

     Join world renowned photographer, Seth Resnick on the safari of a lifetime!  This custom workshop was designed by Wilderness Safaris in conjunction with Seth Resnick D65 and Journey’s Unforgettable.

We will be photographing and exploring the Dunes of Sossesviei in Namibia, The Skeleton Coast in the Kulala Desert, the Vumbra Plains in Botwana, and a very special trip as an add on to Mombo in Botswana.

The itinerary (below) first and foremost has been customized to take you to the BEST wildlife areas at this time of the year, giving you a real sense of wilderness, and a true Africa experience, in total comfort.

This trip is truly going to be like no other.  We will be utilizing planes, private open-air vehicles,hot air balloons with the most experienced, elite guides. This is the best of the best of Africa. Creativity, composition, exposure, workflow, and post-processing are only a few of the topics to be presented by world -renowned photographer and your workshop leader Seth Resnick.

This is truly a once in a lifetime African Safari, limited to 12 people with 3 guides and Seth.

Cost: $19,480   ($5,380 for Mombo Extension)

To Register:

Brennan Rimer
Journey’s Unforgettable
Brennan@journeysunforgettable.com
561-901-7048

 

Itinerary  

 

May 4th: Arrive in Johannesburg and spend two nights in Johannesburg at Hotel

 

May 5th: Private Group Tour of Soweto/Townships with Robin Binckes (Culture!)

 

May 6th: Depart for Namibia and visit the Dunes of Sossesvlei staying at Kulala Desert Lodge for 3 Nights

 

Namibia, an arid country of startling contrasts, is home to two great deserts. Along its length, the vast shifting sand sea of the Namib sprawls inland along the Atlantic coastline. In the interior, the plateau slopes away to the north and east to meet the Kalahari Desert. This is a country famed for its expansive landscapes, fascinating geology, sun-drenched weather, wildlife and intriguingly diverse peoples.

 

At first glance seemingly lifeless, the reality is astonishing – some 4 000 plant species, 650 bird species and 80 large mammals can be found here. The world’s tallest sand dunes, desert-adapted black rhino, one of the oldest Bushman rock art sites, and fascinating Himba cultures – all these and more combine to make Namibia a wilderness destination with a difference.

 

In the Namib Desert on the private Kulala Wilderness Reserve, this lodge provides convenient private access to the iconic dunes of Sossusvlei. You will see sparsely distributed desert-adapted wildlife such as ostrich, springbok and gemsbok. Predators such as spotted hyaena and the occasional brown hyaena as well as bat-eared fox, black-backed jackal, porcupine, Cape fox and aardwolf. The aptly named Dune Lark is only to be found in this area.

 

At dusk the calls of barking geckoes resonate, while smaller creatures include the buck-spoor spider or the ambush specialist ant-lion.  The thatched and canvas “kulalas” we will be staying in are built on a wooden platform to catch the cooling breezes with a rooftop deck for those who want to sleep under the myriad stars of Namibia’s clear night skies.

 

The main area has a lounge, dining area, plunge pool, and deck overlooking the ephemeral Tsauchab River. A waterhole attracts a variety of local wildlife and provides a perfect location to view and photograph the desert scenery.

This little guy was hanging out on the side of Seth's plunge pool

The Skeleton Coast National Park is one of the planet’s most inhospitable yet hauntingly beautiful places; Skeleton Coast Camp provides a true wilderness experience in one of the most spectacular settings in Africa.

The terrain is rugged and harsh, yet, for all this, life – unusual and unexpected – prevails. The coastline harbours black-backed jackal and reclusive brown hyaena while inland secret water seeps attract gemsbok, springbok, ostrich, elephant, giraffe, Hartmann’s mountain zebra and occasionally lion. Unique bird species include Damara Tern and Gray’s Lark.

 Remote Skeleton Coast Camp is set out along the banks of the ephemeral Khumib River and comprises six Meru-style canvas-walled tents with spacious bedrooms and en-suite bathrooms. An intimate main area sports an open-air ‘dining room’ under an ancient leadwood tree.

Incredible sunsets every night...

May 12th: Fly to Botswana, and connect to Kings Pool for 3 Nights

Kings Pool Camp overlooks the oxbow-shaped Kings Pool Lagoon and Linyanti River system in the central part of the concession. The area around Kings Pool is characterised by open floodplain, typical riparian forest and mopane woodland. Large elephant herds usually traverse the area together with wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, waterbuck, steenbok, warthog and roan. Predators such as lion, cheetah, leopard, hyaena and wild dog all occur.
This luxurious and stylish camp has nine well-appointed rooms of canvas and thatch, each with a large en-suite bedroom and lounge. Folding doors lead to a veranda with private plunge pool, separate thatched sala to soak up the views, and an outdoor shower. The lounge and dining areas are set on expansive decks, and there is a pool and an open-air ‘kgotla’ (boma) for evening dining under the stars.

May 15th: Depart Kings Pool to Vumbura Plains for 3 Nights

On land or water, Vumbura Plains hosts abundant iconic wildlife of Botswana – and is part of a ground-breaking partnership that brings the benefits of ecotourism to five communities around the Okavango Delta.

Vumbura Plains comprises two separate seven-roomed satellite camps with a view across the floodplains; each has its own raised dining and lounge area beneath a shady canopy, furnished with soft sofas and idiosyncratic objets d’art. Each elevated en-suite room, unique in contemporary design and with extensive use of light, wood and space, comprises a large bedroom, sunken lounge, “sala”, outdoor shower, and plunge pool.

Vumbura features a broad complement of antelope (including contrasts such as the water-loving red lechwe and the sable of the dry savannah), good populations of elephant, buffalo, hippo and giraffe, and large predators: lion, spotted hyaena, leopard, wild dog and cheetah. Bird life is abundant with Okavango specials such as Rosy-throated Longclaw, Black Coucal and Wattled Crane. The woodlands in the east harbour White-breasted Cuckooshrike and Racket-tailed Roller.

Seth shot this with a 70mm lens. The lion was less than 6 ft. away, and roared right at Seth!

May 18th: Return to Johannesburg for those not doing the Mombo Extension

Water lily shot with a macro shot at camp

May 18th – 21st: Mombo Extension: Fly from Vumbura to Mombo (15min Flight) for 3 Nights

 

Mombo Camp, overlooking a plain invariably dotted with wildlife, offers arguably the best big game viewing in Botswana.

 

The area has prolific concentrations of plains game such as giraffe, zebra, warthog, red lechwe,tsessebe, wildebeest, kudu, elephant, buffalo and impala. Abundant predator sightings include lion, spotted hyaena and leopard. Chief’s Island is also home to the only white and black rhino in the Okavango Delta. The birding, a result of diverse habitats, is equally attractive. Large concentrations of plains game often occur in front of camp and their almost ubiquitous presence.

Mombo Camp, on Mombo Island, has nine spacious tents raised off the ground and under shady trees, all built to maximise the view over the floodplain. The tent interiors are elegantly furnished with polished parquet floors, an outdoor thatched sala, and en-suite bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers. The main living and dining area is under thatch and there is a boma for traditional dinners, small library and a plunge pool to relax in the heat of the day.

Seth relaxing in Mombo after an early morning game drive

Cape Buffalo shot from a helicopter over the Okavango Delta outside of Mombo

New lion family shot full frame with a 300mm. They were about 20 ft. away

Rhinos are being slaughtered at a rate of 1 per day and they face extinction

May 21st: After an incredible safari trip, return to Johannesburg for your flights back home. For more info about the slaughter of the Rhinos

 

ALL the CAMPS we are traveling to are OWNED and/or OPERATED by WILDERNESS SAFARIS


 

 

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New Payment Terms for our Arctic Voyage 9/14/ -9/17, 2012

November 14th, 2011 |  by No comments

New payment terms!
Reserve your space for only $2,500.
Email - Terri.chalmers@quarkexpeditions.com

The trip is half full now!…

Locations – Spitsbergen, Greenland, Iceland
Leaders – John Paul Caponigro and Seth Resnick (D-65)

Guest Instructors – Eric Meola,Arthur Meyerson, +Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson

 

Greenland


Dates Sept. 4-17 2012
Tuition $13,990   single cabin
$10,990   double cabin
$8,990     triple cabin
Registration terri.chalmers@quarkexpeditions.com

Join us September 4-17, 2012 in the Arctic (Spitsbergen, Greenland, Iceland) for a digital photography workshop/cruise unlike any other. We’ll visit, spectacular fiords with towering ice cliffs, magnificent glaciers calving icebergs, ancient villages, and wonderful wildlife (polar bears, walrus, seal, whales, and many sea birds).

Creativity, composition, exposure, workflow, and post-processing are only a few of the topics presented.

Workshop leaders are John Paul Caponigro, and Seth Resnick.

Guest instructors are Eric MeolaArthur Meyerson, and Ragnar th Sigurdsson.

Register

Contact – Terri Chambers

Email        Terri.chalmers@quarkexpeditions.com

Phone      416-504-8979 ext. 246

Price

$8,990     triple cabin
$10,990   double cabin
$13,990   single cabin

Itinerary

Day 1 – Embarkation Day, Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen
Your adventure begins when you board your ship in Longyearbyen, the island’s largest settlement. Enjoy your first view of Spitsbergen’s rugged, glacier-topped mountains, rising majestically from icy Arctic waters.
Day 2 to 3 – Exploring Spitsbergen
Largest of the Norwegian-ruled Svalbard islands, Spitsbergen is famed for its abundant wildlife and austere beauty. Here you’ll visit spectacular glacier fronts, steep-walled fjords and the tiny international research community of Ny Alesund. Wildlife-viewing opportunities include walrus, polar bear and the unique Spitsbergen reindeer. Birders will thrill to see Arctic Terns, skuas, Long-tailed Ducks, kittiwakes and Glaucous Gulls. As an added bonus, when conditions are right, you could sail within 10° of the North Pole!
Day 4 to 5 – Greenland Sea
While sailing the historic Greenland Sea, you’ll learn about the wildlife and history of Spitsbergen, your next stop. On deck you’ll learn to identify seabirds on the wing. Share photos, sip an icy cocktail in the bar – watch a movie – there are many things to do at sea.
Day 6 to 10 – Scoresbysund, Eastern Greenland
During your tour of Greenland’s remote eastern coast, you’ll enjoy sea-level Zodiac cruises and shore visits to several locations. Sail the ice edge searching for walrus and polar bear. Visit the remains of ancient Thule settlements, and keep an eye out for grazing musk oxen, because 40% of the world’s population of this fascinating mammal lives on the east coast of Greenland. Finally, sail through spectacular Scoresbysund, birthplace of many icebergs, and – some say – the most beautiful fjord system in the world.
Day 11 to 12 – At Sea in the Denmark Strait
Sail through the Denmark Strait en route to Greenland’s mysterious eastern shore. Your onboard Expedition Team keeps you informed and entertained with
presentations about area wildlife- especially the seabirds you’ll see soaring above your ship.
Day 13 – Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar)
Named long ago for Irishmen (Westmen) enslaved by the medieval Norse-Gaels, this small archipelago is one of Iceland’s gems. Here you’ll learn of the area’s fascinating history and famed volcanic geology while touring the town of Heimaey. There’s also a good chance you’ll spot large colonies of puffins on one of the outlying islands.
Day 14 – Disembarkation Day, Reykjavik, Iceland
We’ll say our farewell’s with a heavy heart as our adventure ends in Reykjavik, the world’s northernmost capital city.

 

 

 

 


 

 

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Categories: Photo Trips, Workshops

D65 Seth Resnick -The Best of Africa – Africa Spectacular 2012- May 6-21

August 26th, 2011 |  by No comments

NAMIBIA- dunes of Sossesviei   KULALA DESERT-Skeleton Coast   BOTSWANA- Mombo- Vumbra Plains

Full frame with 70-200-Lions in Vumbra Plains

 SCHEDULE FOR SETH RESNICK’S AFRICA SPECTACULAR 2012

On May 4th, Arrive in Johannesburg and spend two nights in Johannesburg at Hotel.  On May 5th, Private Group Tour of Soweto/Townships with Robin Binckes (Culture!)
On May 6th, depart for Namibia and visit the Dunes of Sossesvlei staying at Kulala Desert Lodge for 3 Nights

On May 9th, depart Kulala Desert to Skeleton Coast for 3 Nights
On May 12th, leave Namibia for a direct flight to Botswana, and connect to Kings Pool for 3 Nights
On May 15th, depart Kings Pool to Vumbura Plains for 3 Nights

Elephants in Vumbra Plains

Accommodations in Vumbra Plains

Accommodations in Vumbra Plains

Leopards in Vumbra Plains

Leopards in Vumbra Plains

Reed frogs

Reed frogs

On May 18th, return to Johannesburg for those not doing the Mombo Extension
Mombo Extension Starting May 18th – 21st 

For those going on the Mombo Extension, transfer from Vumbura to Mombo (15min Flight) for 3 Nights 

Rhinos is Mombo

Rhinos is Mombo

Lions in Mombo

Lions in Mombo

Mombo

Mombo

On May 21st, after an incredible safari trip return to Johannesburg for your flights to USA.

ALL the CAMPS we are traveling to are OWNED and/or OPERATED by WILDERNESS SAFARIS
Little Kulala is the Premiere Camp, and Kulala Desert Lodge is the Classic/Wilderness Adventures Camp.
The choices was made because personally, we like the location of Kulala Desert Lodge better.
Kulala Deser Lodge is in the pro-namib, a slightly more lush terrain with a greater species diversity.  Closer to the mountains, the scenery in mind is “better”.   Grasses bring caressed by a gentle breeze or under a full moon is spectacular.
With the camp bring higher on the hill, the commanding views of the valley below are great and the access to the dune gates is closer than that of Little Kulala.
While Skeleton Coast Camp is considered to be a classic camp,  Serra Cafema the Premiere Camp has been closed down because of a flood!   Regardless, we still would have chosen Skeleton Coast Camp because the highlight and specialty of traveling to this area, is that it is probably the most remote place one can visit in all of Africa.  The activities at this camp will be daily, meaning we will leave in the morning and only come back in the afternoon packing meals for the day.
So considering we will only be “sleeping” there, Wilderness Safaris has built the camp more on the basis of location and remoteness, than luxury.   Laundry is actually not done at Skeleton Coast…as water is very very limited.  All the other camps will have laundry….so surviving for 3 days has never been an issue for any of our travelers.
Just some personal thoughts…
The itinerary first and foremost has been customized to take you to the BEST wildlife areas at this time of the year, while also keeping in mind the accommodation, and overall cost.  Mixing Classic/Premiere gives the travel a real sense of wilderness, and a true Africa experience.  We are going from Classic and building up the trip to Premiere.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 This trip is truly going to be like no other. Private planes and vehicles and guides and going to the best of the best of Africa.
The cost will be $19,480 and $5,380 for the additional time in Mombo.                                                                                                 
This is truly a once in a lifetime Africa trip and will be limited to 12 people and we will have 3 guides.
To read about our last trip to Africa 
For additional info Africa 2012

 

To signup for this trip contact:

Brennan | Journeys Unforgettable <brennan@journeysunforgettable.com>

 

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Two Visions Collide

June 6th, 2011 |  by No comments

One of my most educational experiences in Antarctica was shooting side by side next to JP (John Paul Caponigro). We are cruising along and the captain announces that there is an interesting iceberg coming up on Port Side. Instantly the photographers are armed and ready and lined up along the rail for the assault. This kind of shooting can be aggravating or it can be a most enjoyable experience depending on how you handle it. I am about 4 inches from JP on one side and Jeff Schewe on the other. I look out at this iceberg and instantly said to myself that the only image that will work is with a 300mm and a 2x converter. JP whips out his 28mm and I stopped and think HUH. No way can you shoot this blip on the horizon with a 28mm. In fact I wished I had my 800mm. We both have the same reaction.” What are you seeing?” We instinctively trade cameras and we both burst out into laughter. JP is shooting this horizontal line with a little blip ( and it is amazing) and I am isolating just the side of this iceberg with great light. Side by side with 4 inches between us and you would never know we were even on the same boat.

This experience repeated itself multiple times on all three of our trips. Here I am with my 300 and JP is next to me with a 28mm and we are shooting the same thing. The biggest irony was several times I would  think about how JP would shoot and I would show up on deck with a 14mm and JP would show up with a 300mm. We had such an influence on each other and to this day every time I pull out my wide angle lens I think about JP.

As visual artists we all see the world differently. Sharing those experiences can be truly educational and enlightening.

Read JP’s version here
Find out more about our Digital Photography Destinations workshops here where we have some of the greatest instructors all at the same time for your unique learning and photographing experience.

 

Long Lens Marguerite Bay

Wide angle view of iceberg in Marguerite Bay

 

Long lens Cierva Cove

Wide angle Cierva Cove

 

Long Lens Scotia Sea

Wide view Scotia Sea

 

Long lens Orne Harbour

Wide angle Orne Harbour

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Patagonia Photography Workshop December 10 – 14, 2011

May 10th, 2011 |  by No comments

This is a custom photo trip with Seth Resnick, John Paul Caponigro, Eric Meola and Arthur Meyerson. Experience sunset on the Perito Moreno Glacier, the coast of Lake Argentino, Brazo Rico and the Iceberg Channel and all that is just on day 1. We will also have a full day boat tour in Los Glaciares National Park where we will see the North wall of the Perito Moreno Glacier, the Upsala Glacier, Spegazzini Glacier and Los Tempanos (Icebergs) Channel. Additional photography sessions and instruction at Grey Glacier, Big Fall, Nordenskjold Lake and Paine River Fall with spectacular views of French Valley, Paine Grande Massif and The Horns and a trip to visit the Blue Lagoon with absolutely magical color. One of the highlights of this trip will be a several trips trekking on ice with amazing opportunity for photography.

For additional information Patagonia

We announced this trip yesterday to a small group. There were a total of 30 spots and only 12 are left.

To Book this trip:

Contact Paul.Schuster@quarkexpeditions.com

 

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Categories: Photo Trips, Workshops

Oslo, Norway- Photoshop konferansen 2011

April 2nd, 2011 |  by No comments

I have been speaking at the Photoshop Conference in Norway and have used my free time to shoot in this spectacular city.

Bicycle on boat in Norway

Rust on boat in Oslo

Ice and oil in harbor of Oslo

Couple on fortress wall in Oslo

Reflection in water

Reflections in harbor, Oslo

Housing in Oslo

Striations in rock in Oslo

Steel beams at ski jump in Oslo

Roof tiles on house in Oslo

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Planning New Trip with John Paul Caponigro to Photograph Greenland- Polar Bears, Ice and Walrus

February 16th, 2011 |  by No comments

PHOTOGRAPH GREENLAND

Get ready for an exciting trip to Greenland photographing ice, polar bears and walrus

TBA most likley August 2012

With World Renowned Photographers

John Paul Caponigro, Seth Resnick,

- TO be placed on advance list Email Greenland@sethresnick.com

Our Antarctica 2011 workshop sold out fast!

John Paul Caponigro and I are organizing a new Arctic (Iceland, Greenland, and Spitsbergen) digital photography workshop/cruise during the end of August or early September 2012.

Our itinerary will be similar to this voyage but customized to maximize photographic opportunities. Geothermals, glaciers, fjiords, icebergs, whales, walrus, and polar bear are only a few of the trip’s highlights.Creativity, exposure, workflow, and post-processing are only a few of the topics presented.

You can be among the first to reserve a space and get your choice of cabins by requesting to be placed on our pre-announce list.We’ll alert you with more information as soon as details become firm.Your contact information will remain confidential.

Tentative route for Greenland

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Botswana Part 11 last part and most amazing…

February 12th, 2011 |  by No comments

DAY 14

We get up very early long before sunrise and start talking about our very special day.  As we drive along Michelle who has become an amazing tracker suddenly spots a leopard in a tree and he has something in his mouth. Moss and Russell do not know this leopard and we approach with caution as he is not at all used to vehicles and people. We get a bit too close and he growls deeply and we all feel that familiar twinge in the spine.

Just another spectacular African sunrise

I have seen these for two weeks and still can't get over the colors

Carrying dinner down the tree

Carrying dinner away from us..

Oh NO Not that direct eye contact thing. I really don't want to get eaten. That was Jeff who moved in the vehicle not me...

Buffalo covered with ox peckers

The rest of the day is an unbelievable and rare treat. We are going to have an experience that almost no one gets to do. We meet a helicopter and the anti poaching unit along with a vet and some folks who have been satellite tracking elephants. Jeff is exceedingly dedicated to the preservation of wildlife and has contributed funds to allow an Elephant to be tranquillized and outfitted with a collar tracked by satellite. This is no small feat. Jeff, Michelle and I go in the helicopter and locate a herd of elephants. We coordinate with ground crews getting them near the herd.

flying above herd of elephants looking for one to collar

Ground team is directed to elephant from the helicopter

Anti poaching unit aids assistance

Jeff tries on the collar

The helicopter lands near the herd and the operation begins. First the vet takes out his medicine box and prepares the dart to tranquilize the elephant. The chopper along with Jeff and the vet take off and find the dominant female and as the helicopter hovers low, the vet takes his shot. Everyone is anxious. It takes an average of 8 to 10 minutes for the elephant to go down. The herd senses something and surround the darted female to protect her. The herd is scared off by the helicopter and leave the sedated elephant.

Vet selects the drug for the dart

Preparation of the dart

Final prep of the dart

Dart is loaded into the rifle

Collar is ready for the elephant

Helicopter pics up the vet for the darting

Taking aim at the elephant

Dart is fired from the chopper

The dart in the elephant

She starts to go down and the team must move fast

The helicopter quickly lands and we approach the elephant. She must be turned on her side and everyone pushes to turn her. I am the only one not pushing because I want to photograph this incredible event. Michelle helps do measurements and Jeff is given the task to put on the collar which ways 17 Kilos. The vet draws blood for DNA samples and finally Jeff gets to name the elephant. Jeff chooses Chloe after one of his nieces. The entire event is very emotional. Everything is completed and Chloe is ready for tracking. Michelle gives her a kiss on the trunk and Jeff give her an emotional hug and kiss goodbye. She is given the reversal drug by the vet and within minutes is on her feet. She touches the tracking device with her trunk and heads off.

Everyone helps to roll the elephant over for the collar

Out like a light for just enough time to get the collar on

The wound site is cleaned

Measurements and blood samples taken

Jeff puts the collar on

Hair on the elephants back

Michelle checks out the trunk

Jeff feels the air coming through the trunk

Emotions build as the team gets ready to wake the elephant

Final checks are completed

Jeff has an emotional moment with the elephant now named Chloe

The vet gives the injection to wake up Chloe

The vet notes the time from the injection

Chloe starts to wake up

She is soon on her feet

Once up she checks out the tracking device and collar

We get back on the chopper and head across the bush photographing wildlife from a great vantage point and head to a village called Gunotsogaa Village. We have to make two trips to the village because we bring a guide as well. Michelle and I land first and we are instantly swarmed by smiling children. It is amazing and quite emotional. They want to touch us and everyone wants their picture taken. Jeff arrives about 20 minutes later and we tour the little village visiting a school, a village center for meetings, a little store and eventually we are treated to a dance performed by the entire village. The faces are amazing and there are many stories behind the fantastic array of eyes and smiles.

Flying over the delta to the village of Gunotsogaa via helicopter

The delta from the air is even more dramatic than the ground view

A herd of elephants along the Okavango Delta

The children in Gunotsogaa greet us with excitement as we land

face after face

shy,happy, inquisitive but all kids with big smiles

They wanted to touch us and of course see the pictures

Michelle has even a bigger smile than the kids

And my smile isn't too bad either....

Everyone comes to see us

Amazing color and amazing faces

cute, cute and more cute

Each face tells a story

Every generation comes to say hi

Amazing faces

HIV and or TB infect almost half of the village

sign from inside classroom

The bar and movie theatre. Amazingly the sign on the front says Avatar and GI Joe the rise of the cobra playing now

The village bread store

A dance when a girl is initiated into adulthood.

Even the babies check us out

Amazing color and faces

Another major gigage day for me

Every turn of the camera is another amazing face

Michelle and Seth joke about Jeff adopting 30 or 40 kids

Michelle is swarmed ( and loving it) as she shows the images on the back of the camera

Just amazing, amazing faces and the gigage just keeps growing

Every face tells a story

We eventually board the helicopter and wave goodbye and head back to camp. Along the way we photograph from the air which is simply amazing.

Eventually we have to leave and wave goodbye

The Okavango Delta is painting like from the air

A fish eagle flying next to our helicopter

Even our helicopter becomes a subject

Great herds look amazing from the air

The birds stay on the back as the buffalo bolts through the water

The hippos are not to sure about the helicopter

A thunderstorm moves across the delta

Jeff practices his zebra herding skills for one last sunset. He has graduated and  gets the zebras to move right into the perfect light.

Jeff has become a professional zebra herder

Jeff gets the zebras to run right through the water

Turn around and line up for Seth

We have a fantastic barbeque and continue with editing all the images and I photograph the stars at night.

The stars were incredible

DAY 15

I get up at 3 AM to photograph the stars and then we all meet for sunrise and head out into the bush to find Chloe. We are aided by Poster who quickly locates Chloe. She is fine but a little shy and we don’t want to bother her but are all feeling much better knowing that all is well.

After photographing the stars, sunrise starts and we have Venus with the moon

Poster uses a tracking device to help us find Chloe

Chloe has the tracking device and is fine:)

A few more zebras before we head back to the states

The patterns are incredible

My last frame from Botswana

We go back to camp and have breakfast and head to the airstrip. Russell the king of birdwatching accompanies us on the way to the airstrip. We all start calling out some of the birds and wonder if we will be inducted into the honorary bird watching society. Russell’s wife Bonnie was flying in and we met her briefly at the airstrip. She studies different kinds of grasses and spiders. We figure that being in the bush with Bonnie and Russell might be too exciting for all of us… We board our puddle jumper after clearing the runway of some impala and head to Maun for a transfer to Johannesburg. As we board the flight from Maun the flight attendant announces that they are going to disinfect the plane of bugs and sprays an obnoxious substance in the aisles. Kills all bugs but safe for humans to inhale… Right…..

In Johannesburg we have to form two lines one with males and one with females to be checked by security. The line was long and when we inquired if there was a line for Business Class we were told that there was one for men but not for woman. Too bad for Michelle who had to wait for quite sometime. In the meantime Jeff was flagged by security for a more in depth search. Evidently Jeff get caught last year attempting to bring a ham sandwich into US and it went on his permanent flying record. I guess the ham wasn’t kosher….

EPILOG

So the honest truth is that initially I really did not want to go on this trip. I had been to so many zoos and wild animal parks that I thought this would be essentially the same. I assumed we would have a guide and just like in an animal park in the US someone would say over there we have a lion.. I could not have been more wrong. THIS TRIP WAS ONE OF THE BEST I HAVE EVER BEEN ON and it was wild and very real and the images and light and experience was beyond anything I could have imagined.

This trip would not have been possible without the dedication and commitment to helping animals that Jeff portrayed. While he likes to show the brazen New York where he was born, he is a sweet gentle and amazingly kind human and we need more Jeff’sMichelle and I both want to thank Jeff for inviting us on this incredible trip.  We truly had an amazing time and it far exceeded our expectations – it is going to be a hard trip to top.  The three of us had such a great time together, really good company to spend two weeks in Africa with!

Lastly, I would like to thank Stephen and Brennan Rimer from Journeys Unforgettable www.JourneysUnforgettable.com who customized this trip for us. Stay tuned as we will be doing other African trips with them. Also I would like to thank Russell Friedman and Wilderness Safaris.com. Lastly thanks to Kelly Landen and the crew from Elephanats Without Borders.

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